All the elements of the user.profile section can be controlled by the user profile manager.
Admin -> Manage Users
Look at the ACTION MENU for Manage User Profiles.
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BUT as to how you control layout or appearance of those elements that DONT appear in the profile - UserName / Password etc - That is a much more complex and messy task.
ManageUsers is a compond user control - that ties together a number of other modules at runtime - some of which have static layouts and some of which are derived from database driven lists.
The best way to get started is to work you way thru the managerusers files and then thru each of the controls it reference - to get an understanding of how it all ties together.
The other option - and this is not such a bad idea - is to create your own CUSTOM rego module - and populate a userinfo record manually - this gives the MOST control.
The other option - visit the DNN Module store or have a look on SnowCovered.com - there are a couple of custom user rego modules for sale there - that may give you some of the control you need.
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One other comment - if you really want to want to code yourself - start with something a little more simple to deal with - get a couple of custom modules working first - maybe a form or two - to get to understand how things work.
Westa